The Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu independently
03/02/2012Acclimatizing in Cusco
Sadly it seems that a month on the beach is not the best preparation for living at altitude. I am sure it would have been worse if we had flown rather then taking the bus for 48 hours via a few hours in Lima, but that was little consolation as we were sick, our heads pounded and we struggled up hills. We also discovered how badly alcohol and altitude mix and paid the heavy price of a day feeling like we had flu. So yes, altitude sickness really does exist and it really is rubbish, but luckily for us Cusco is a lovely city and not a bad place to hang out for a few days. We got all our shopping done for the trek (back on the P diet - peanuts, porridge and pasta with soup for flavour - no potato this time as it isn't particularly filling and is heavy), including new walking boots for me which was very exciting. We did a test walk one day when we were feeling a bit healthy and headed into the countryside around Cusco and from Abra de Corao walked back to town. Unfortunately the directions we had downloaded from the internet weren't as helpful as they first seemed and we ended up on the wrong path but luckily still heading to Cusco (mainly due to Seth's excellent sense of direction). It was a lovely little walk and great to test out the new shoes.
Day 1 - from Mollepata
Finally we were ready to head off and after a false start (when no one was around in our guest house at 6am to let us out to get our bus) we loaded our backpacks with food, camping equipment, trekking clothes and thermals for 5 days in the mountains. Our packs felt heavy as we set off and we had to keep reminding ourselves that with every meal they would get lighter.
Getting to the start was relatively straight forward (collectivo direct Cusco, just ask the locals where they go from) and then dropped off in the middle of Mollepata town plaza. Having turned down offers for guides and managing to getting a general consensus on which way to start walking, we were off. It was only about 9am when we started walking and we had the whole day ahead of us. Despite the heavy backpacks, we were feeling fairly confident with no rain in sight (this is rainy season so rain was a constant threat) and our two trusty maps, one free we found on the internet and a topographic map we had bought in Cusco (the only one they seemed to sell in town). As we walked out of town we checked our direction with anyone willing to catch our eye and soon we were in the countryside with no one around to ask directions but happy we were on the road. After about 45 minutes we discovered we had already gone the wrong way and we were on our way to Marcocasa rather then taking the shorter route that the guided groups follow. After a little consultation we decided that was ok and we would continue on our way rather then turn back to find the road we meant to follow. Hmmm... we made that decision a bit too quickly instantly adding another mountain pass to our route rather then staying on the lower path.
On a path (if not the path we really wanted) we set off again. The maps both seemed to show that we followed the road to the end where it would became a path just after the town of Marcocasa - easy! Unfortunately this wasn't the case. The maps we were using just didn't bother to show any road or path we didn't need to take and therefore about an hour after Marcocasa we finally bumped into a local who madly waved us back and marched us back up the road to where the correct path was (for a small cost of course). With our backpacks this march was hard work but as we couldn't be sure to see anyone else who could show us the right path we had to try and keep up. It was a tiny little path going directly up and our instructions from our friendly local were to keep going up, never down, just up up up. Ouch! We stopped for a pasta lunch as soon as we were sure he was out of sight!
Having been put on the right path, following it was relatively straight forward and our only difficulties were our state of mind having been lost twice before lunch on the first day, and no longer having any faith in our maps. However the surrounding countryside and views were spectacular as we headed up towards the top of our first mountain pass and looked down into the surrounding valleys. Soon we reached the top and were finally able to start the much easier walk down hill, however the sun was setting and it was going to get dark so we had to find a campsite. With energy and spirits low we marched on along the ridge that would take us to the other side and finally, with only about 30 minutes of daylight left we found ourselves on a beautiful plateau and we set up camp looking down the valley towards our main mountain pass. These are the moments that make it worth the pain of carrying the tent and all our food - when we are able to set up in such spectacular and isolated places and know we will be safe, warm and fed. What a treat and how lucky we are.
Day 2 - the pass day
The next day we set off early and finally met back up with the path we had originally planned to take. By lunchtime we were at Soraypampa where we found an empty campsite to have lunch, dry our tent (it had rained most of the night before and we had had to put it away wet) and rest for a little while before tackling the pass.
From the information we had, we should have had about 4 hours of walking after lunch to get over the pass (an 800 meter climb) and beyond to an official campsite. This sounded easy to achieve as we set off at 1pm with over 5 hours of daylight left but it seems that our information was misleading as it certainly felt a lot more then 800 meters as we climbed to the top and took us more then 4 hours.
As we set off from the campsite we soon felt that we might have got lost again as the map we were following (yet again!) didn't truly reflect where we were walking (the map saying we should be on the left of the river, but we were in fact on the right). We could see a path on the other side and thought we might have just missed where we were meant to cross over so started to look for a way down to the river to get onto the right path. Luckily we decided to just walk up to the top of the next bend and see what we could see, as the path did in fact go down to the river and cross it safely. Lesson being, yet again don't trust the map bought in Cusco (if we did this again we would definitely get a better map from somewhere else as the selection of available maps in Cusco was poor, probably in order to encourage people to sign up to a guide or tour). After crossing the river it was a tough climb up to the top but we were greeted by a quick break in the clouds which allowed us a short glimpse of Mt Salkantay.
It had taken us much longer to get to the top then we had been lead to believe it would so we did get there we had to hot foot it down as far and as fast as we could before darkness (and energy) fell, particularly as we were aware of the dangers of altitude sickness if we didn't make it down far enough. Luckily for us the path down was steep so we made good progress. However we were also worried as the land was very rocky and steep and for a long time we couldn't see anywhere where we would be able to camp. Finally though the Inca Gods (who liked to make it rain every time we stopped to eat, or shine the sun whenever we put on our waterproofs) did give us a much needed break and for the second night in a row we managed to get the tent up just before dark and only minutes before it started to rain. This time we couldn't see where we had camped due to the poor light so all we knew was it was (relatively) flat and not too boggy, and there was a much needed stream very near by for fresh water (to be treated, we didn't trust the water as being safe to drink without treatment). It wasn't until the morning that we discovered what a stunning spot we had found, surrounded by snowcapped mountains.
Day 3 - to Collpapampa
After our beautiful campsite was revealed to us we set off feeling good about our trek. It was to be an easy downhill today and we had decided that we deserved a night in a real campsite so we could have our first shower of the trek so this meant a relatively short days walk (assuming any part of any of our maps could be trusted even a little). It was another stunning walk following the valley down the hill to Collpapampa. There was no moment when we felt lost and the path was easy. We arrived into Collpapampa with over 2 hours of daylight left and stopped at the first campsite we found. In hindsight this was a mistake as we spent most of our evening defending our things from the farm animals (chickens, pigs and horses) and then woke in the morning, after another night of terrible rain, to find the field a mud pool meaning putting the tent away wet again. However for the time being it was great as we got to wash, albeit in a cold shower, and we even had a beer each. It felt quite a treat!
Day 4 - through the rain, rivers and mud to La Playa and beyond
Day 4 was mostly a case of following the road from Collpapampa to La Playa. Again our map showed a different route but this time I think the change was due to a large landslide washing away the old path rather then a mistake in the map. Although it would rain from time to time during the day, it was the extremely heavy rain the night before that really caused us trouble particularly as it was the third consecutive night of rain. The flooding and landslides caused us big problems and the mud in the rivers and streams also made it hard for us to find any water to drink. At one stage we found ourselves trying to build a bridge across a river which had completely burst from its usual path (not exactly banks as it crossed the road). In the end though we decided we couldn't trust our little bridge to hold so after searching for a better option we replaced our walking boots with flip-flops and waded slowly through fast flowing, knee deep water to get to the other side. We both lost a flip-flop in the process, mine didn't go far and I was able to rescue it but Seth's looked as though it was washed away completely. Unbelievably though it stopped on the the bridge we had tried to build! We might not have made a safe bridge but we certainly made a great flip-flop catcher.
After this our spirits were again low and we were seriously considering getting a lift from La Playa to Santa Teresa, which is the route the tour groups takes, rather then walking the final stage. As we trudged through ankle deep mud (still in flip-flops), and searched in vain for clean looking water things were looking quite sad. Finally as we reached La Playa though the ground started to dry and we found the water we needed and we decided to keep going.
Thank goodness we did. We knew from our (untrustworthy) map that we were looking for a path going off the right from the road but we knew nothing more. Given past experience on this trek we weren't hopeful about knowing when we got to the right path but we decided we would stop and ask when we saw a viable option. This wasn't necessary as we saw our first sign on the entire the trek showing us the way and leading us onto our first real Inca path. It was such a relief to find this and see that we could, after all, may be, with a bit more luck, actually make the full trek. After another meal of pasta and soup we set off up the path. Because of the delay in finding fresh water we didn't have lunch until 3 so yet again we found ourselves racing the sunset and desperately looking for a place to camp but the path was clear and easy follow (although very steep and solidly up hill, yet another mountain pass!). The major worry tonight, a bit like day 2, was that the path we were following was narrow and there was no flat ground anywhere to be seen. Also water was an issue tonight but again the Inca gods showed us a little mercy a we found a fresh waterfall to give us water, and a small bit of flat ground right next to the path were we could camp. Another good days work and this time we knew we were on a solid path to Aguas Calientes and we knew we could reach it the next day. Spirits high and finally warm enough to not need thermals at night we settled into more pasta and soup and an early night.
Day 5 - the final push to Aguas Calientes
Our last morning started with the final up hill struggle but within 45 minutes we were over the top and heading down. As we started to head down the hillside again we came across our first Inca ruin where we enjoyed a rest and finally got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu through the clouds. It was the view from the west of what we now know to be some agricultural land and the tops of the religious and ceremonial buildings and it was fantastic to see it from these ancient ruins where we can assume Incas would also have looked at their city in times gone by.
As we continued down we got more sightings of our destination and this encouraged us down the path. Eventually we came to a new hotel/restaurant that was in the process of being built but with no workman around, only a horse and two dogs to guard it. With a lack of any clear sign we followed the only path we could see out of the site. Big mistake. There was a sign we just didn't see it in time and this mistake cost us about an hour of extremely difficult and dangerous walking/climbing/scrambling down the steep slope of the hillside. We thought we could see where we wanted to be but we couldn't get to it so in the end we turned back up the slope and headed back to the hotel where we found the sign pointing in a totally different direction and down a much easier and well-trodden path. Another lesson - when in doubt, follow the path with the biggest and most foot prints!
Back on the right path and heading for the Hydro electric plant, Machu Picchu went out of sight but an amazing waterfall came into view cascading massive amounts of water from a cave high up in the mountain side. It was incredible.
At last the hydro plant from where we had a flat walk along the train line to Aguas Calientes. It was meant to be 2 hours from the information we had but with our bags and tired legs it was more like nearly 3 but we were still in plenty of time, and having exchanged duck-tape for a recommendation of a hostel in town (Angie's) we were safely housed and showered well before sunset. With the laundry being handled by the hotel and pizza in our bellies we were well and truly ready for a night sleeping under bricks and mortar rather then canvas (although the view was nothing like so spectacular and part of me also missed our trusty tent which has served us so well so far).
Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu
Aguas Calientes gets quite a bad write up in the guide book - it is sort of deserved but a bit harsh. It is a tourist town, of course it is. It exists basically only because of Machu Picchu and everything in the town is to feed, water and generally extract cash from the tourists but it isn't all bad and it was a nice enough place to spend a day letting our feet and muscles recover from the trek. Our only real task for the day was to walk down to the museum at the bottom of the road and find out about how Machu Picchu was built, lived in and then later "discovered" by Bingham. It was an interesting museum and well worth the time, especially before making the trip up to the city itself.
The next day we walked up the last 200 meters to Machu Picchu via a long set of stone stairs. It really is everything we hoped it would be. It looks exactly like it does in the photos that we have all seen in the past and it is just as exciting to see in real life. We arrived early (not 6am like some do but still early enough) and enjoyed the relative peace before the tour groups arrived. After wondering around the bulk of the city admiring the amazing masonry and architecture, we found a quiet spot off the main path and sat to enjoy the spectacular views, the peace and tranquillity of this incredible city in the sky. We were very lucky that the rain held off for us until after lunchtime when we were about ready to head home anyway.
I want to describe the city to you but it is so hard. The stones the Incas moulded and moved into place really are enormous. In the museum there was some quotes from some local people who used to believe the stones were moved into place by whipping them and the stones then moving themselves - I can see why they thought this as it really is about the only possible explanation for some of the stones. The layout of the buildings was incredible with each row of houses supposedly deliberately set high enough above the lower row to ensure everyone got maximum light though their windows and doorways. The shape of the mountain itself allowed this of course but the engineering needed to support this design is impressive to see. I can't imagine what it must have been like to live here (apparently there were some people living there when it was "discovered" by Bingham in 1911) but I can imagine waking up every morning to the most spectacle views of mountains and valleys - incredible.
Back to Cusco
To return to Cusco we decided not to get the train as it is stunningly expensive for what it is, and instead we headed back up to the hydro plant (actually by train as we were told we needed to be there by 8am which would have meant a very very early start if we had walked it - whether we really needed to be there for 8am is, in hindsight, questionable but better safe then sorry). From there we were able to get a collectivo to Santa Maria via Santa Tessa and then another one to Cusco. We had expected this route to take us all day but in the end we were back in Cusco and in our hotel by 3pm which was great. The whole trip had been an amazing adventure full of both physical and emotional highs and lows but we wouldn't have missed it for the world.
